Living in Ericeira

I have now been living in Ericeira for a week, and what an amazing place! Europe’s miracle mile of surfing and a sick little town; I have fallen deeply in love!

Sunsets from the cliffs above Praia do Sul

I managed to get myself a last minute volunteering job at Amar Hostel and Surf Camp for a month and a bit until mid September. So now, I live right in the center of Ericeira with access to about 10 different breaks all within walking or a short car journey distance! I have learnt so much already since moving down the coast from Foz do Arelho and have met so many amazing people. I would honestly be quite happy to live here for the rest of my life.

So, I thought I would share some of the important and interesting things I have learned so far as well as some tips and tricks. Hope you enjoy…

Beaches - Where to surf?

Ericeira and the towns surrounding definitely have an abundance of beaches on offer, however, not all have surfable waves. Furthermore, not all the goods waves are accessible by a beach.

The main beaches to surf at are São Julião, Foz do Lizandro, São Sebastião, Matadouro, Pedra Branca and the famous Ribeira d’Ilhas. Praia dos Pescadores and Praia do Sul are surfable in the Winter, but definitely have tamer waves in the Summer. Up towards Ribamar and São Lourenço, there are the reef brakes of Cave and Crazy Left. And outside of these spots, there are so many other waves, both beach breaks and reef breaks, both crowded and empty.

Obviously the weather on the Silver Coast is at its best this time of year, however, that does mean there are so many crowds. Tourists = a lot of beginners int the water, which can be a bit frustrating. Just bear in mind that you are going to be sharing these waves with people who probably don’t know quite what they are doing. I have definitely learnt some extra patience in the last week!

Getting around - Beach Bus and Uber

All the important stuff is within walking distance here, and if you have half an hour to spare, it’s worth walking to your surf spot because the scenery is amazing! But it can get tiring. My feet definitely are worse for wear at the moment. The solution: the Ericeira Beach Bus. There are many bus stops along the main road through Ericeira, the N247, so you are bound to have one near where you are staying. The route runs from Foz do Lizandro to Ribeira d’Ilhas. It’s super cheap (€1 per journey regardless of distance)and even has a trailer for those with surfboards, all you need is a face mask and cash and you are sorted.

On top of these two methods of transport, there are so many moped, bike and scooter rental places; there are a lot of options open to visitors.

Card vs. Cash

Rule no.1 in Portugal: always have cash! Most establishments in Ericiera allow you to pay by card, it’s a fairly modern town. But a lot of places have a cash limit and some smaller shops, cafes etc. do only take cash. And whilst there is an abundance of cash machines, I would always say it’s safer to carry some cash with you in Portugal, just in case.

Chana Store

I have found the most useful shop in the world! (Or maybe just in Ericeira). Chana’s Town! Located along the main road through Ericeira, the N247, and opposite the volunteer fire-station, this shop contains literally anything you could need - other than food. Clothes to art supplies to kitchen utensils to toiletries and so much more! All at very cheap prices might I add. It is a true ‘world of cack’, as my dad would like to say, but a very useful one at that. I have been in there most days so far since being in Ericeira. If you can’t find something in the traditional supermarkets and shops, you can bet Chana’s Town will have it.

Hostel Life

There are so many hostels in Ericeira, from big chains like WOT Ericeira to smaller establishments like Coyote out in Santo Isodoro. You are bound to find something you like, that’s if you are able to find a place with space, because in the high season of summer, they are normally all completely booked out. The hostel I work at, the lovely Amar, is a lot more chill and low-key whilst still located in the center of town. But just over the road you have Selina which has more of a party vibe (I can here their music going on late most nights…)

I have been pleasantly surprised by the different kinds of customers you find at the hostels in Ericeira. At Amar, there have actually been a number of families, both with younger and older children, all getting involved in the surfing and partying and community vibes.

Overall my advice for finding somewhere to stay is just to search around and check that the place you choose to stay has the right vibe for you, you want to be enjoying your stay here as much as possible!

Clubs, Bars and Parties

It’s no lie that Ericeira has an abundance of young travelers and partiers. The main focus here remains surfing, but the lifestyle often goes hand in hand with some hardcore partying (cough cough, as I have found out myself). The main club is Ouriço, and there are several bars like Tubo that have a club feeling later into the night. Adega is a little bar that is often packed, both inside and outside on the street, with good vibes.

In the peak tourist season some of the hostels and surf shops do events and parties, which are really fun. 58 and Boardriders on the N247 have some good event with live music, as well as Sun and the Sea with their sunset party. La Point Surf Camp occasionally do pool parties that go late into the next day and some of the beach bars are fun at night, if you know where to go.

Bottom line is, if you are young and want to party as well as surf, Ericiera is perfect for you. There is definitely no shortage of dancing and drinking.

Do you need to learn Portuguese?

English, unsurprisingly, is the main language spoken in Ericeira. It is an incredibly internationally town and I have met people from almost every country in Europe as well as from America (South and North), Aus and NZ - I have started playing country bingo with my friends. So by no means do you need to learn any Portuguese. Having said that, the locals, especially the older generations, do appreciate it when you can communicate in their home language. A few phrases cab go a long way here…

Obrigado - Thank you

Olá - Hello

Bom dia - Good day, good morning

Quantos? - How much?

Tchau - Bye

Uma cerveja por favor - One beer please

Should you bring your own surfboard?

From personal experience, travelling with a surfboard can be an incredibly stressful experience and we’ve all seen the videos of boards being mishandled/broken by airport staff. It can be a horror show.

I did choose to travel with my surfboard because where I worked in Portugal originally, there weren’t places to rent boards. Also, if you are in Ericeira long term, e.g. a few weeks, renting can get expensive.

Regardless of price though, there is a lot on offer in terms of renting boards. Both shops in town and out of town as well as surf schools rent out gear, so it’s easy to find somewhere. It’s super easy to find a board for your surfing ability as most places have both foamies and hardboards (long and short) available for customers to use. My advice would be to have a little look at prices online before coming just to see which option will be cheaper or more convenient for you.

São Sebastião Market

The tourist in me adores this little gem. On Saturdays and Sundays the Parque Urbano de São Sebastião is full of stands selling all kinds of things. Mostly aimed a tourists; there is loads of jewelry, clothes, swimwear, Portuguese produce and delicacies, and even some second hand and vintage wears. It’s just a really nice atmosphere and I have really enjoyed spending my time strolling through the tents and seeing so many beautiful handmade products. It’s definitely worth a visit if you have time.

Pepper flowers from the farmer at the market

Are COVID restrictions still in place?

There are almost no COVID restrictions left in Portugal anymore. However, I would recommend always having a mask on you at ALL times, just in case. You still have to wear a mask when you go into any pharmacy or medical establishment (I have literally seen people get kicked out for not wearing one) and when on public transport, in particular on the buses! You will not be allowed on a bus if you do not have a mask, even on the open topped Beach Bus here in Ericeira (I don’t quite understand the science of that one)! Better to be safe than sorry!

So there you have it! Some of the more important and interesting bits and pieces I have learned over the last week. Honestly though, I have so much more I could tell you all, I could go on for hours, but I’ve tried to keep it short and sweet and useful. I have learned so much since being here, not only just about the new waves I’m surfing but, new words from different langauges, new things about cooking, about people, about money, about Portugal. It’s kind of like a low-key summer school.

Obviously if you have any questions or are planning to trave to Ericiera or even just the Silver Coast, drop me a message in the comments or message me on Instagram.

I hope everyone is enjoying their August as much as I am! Stay stoked and go surfing.

Florence x

Cliff jumping at Ribeira d’Ilhas

My Favorite Shops in Ericeira

Portugal: March 2022