Life Update: September/October 2022
After a 2-and-a-half-month stint in Portugal I have moved to the windy and rainy Gower Peninsula. I’m technically now a student at Swansea University (yay!), but I do just tell people that I have moved to Wales so I can surf.
Post surf chaos on Bay Campus (yes that’s 7 boards) …
In the last few weeks, since leaving Ericeira, I’ve already met a lot of surfers and made a large friend group of ocean lovers; managed to bust my ankle and scratch up other parts of my body (stairs and alcohol are the enemy); been asked to compete in a surf competition – I am shitting myself for it; and surfed some beautiful spots, including an amazing sunset session with some absolute shredders (shoutout to the Swansea Uni Surf Society). I‘ve managed to get myself at a job at the sickest surf shop on the Gower Peninsula called Hiatus and am loving meeting so many new people (and looking at all the beautiful products that I can’t afford).
Swanse University Bay Campus’ private beach at sunset with friends …
I miss Portugal deeply and am desperate to go back home (it’s bascally part of my personality now); don’t be surprised if I randomly pop up in Ericeira or Peniche at some point in the next weeks. The swell in Wales has been a bit shit since I moved, and it’s been quite painful seeing 9-foot barrels every day on all my friends’ Instagram stories back on the Silver Coast. But I remain optimistic about the Welsh winter swells to come, especially since they have turned out incredible surfers like Ally Barton!
Life has been super chaotic; I feel like a lot of people can relate with the changing of seasons and getting back to education, work etc. It’s been hard remembering to look after myself and take time to be mindful and process all my emotions fully. Having said that, I do feel like I have been really present in my day-to-day life, as I have been experiencing so many new and exciting things.
Anyway, here is a little 1-second-everyday reel to illustrate the last month…
Hope everyone is having an awesome Autumn and remember to look after yourselves!